english translation after the pics
Me voila donc à La Paz, une ville vraiment interressante qui grouille de monde, surtout à la tombée de la nuit...
Je me promène un peu partout grimpe à un "mirador", point de vue qui surplombe toute la ville. Plus encore que dans toute autre ville, c'est ainsi que La Paz, gigantesque agglomération située dans une cuvette entourée de montagnes et de volcans enneigés de plus de 6000m, prend toute son impressionnante dimension...
Mon challenge à La Paz c'était de rencontrer Evo Morales, le premier président indigène d'Amérique du Sud, j'ai fais le forcing au palais présidentiel et j'ai bien cru que ca allait marcher...
On m'a finalement laisser rentrer dans le palais et faire un portrait d'un garde présidentiel mais pas de Evo, trop occupé...
J'assiste aussi aux cérémonies célébrant l'anniversaire de la région de Tarija où je fais pote avec une petite fille de 5 ans qui s'amuse à narguer les militaires et les journalistes, elle me fait bien rire, on danse un peu tout les deux aux sons des fanfares militaires et je prends quelques photos...
Je vais rester une semaine de plus à La Paz, le temps de m'imprégner de son atmosphère particulier...
Le Mercado Negro où on trouve de tout, le marché des sorcières où on trouve le reste (foetus de lama séchés par exemple...), les cireurs de chaussures portant tous une cagoule integrale noire dans le plus pure style "Tupac Amaru" (au moins moi avec mes superstars je me fais pas harceler par les cireurs de chaussures...) et partout les "choletas" et leurs petits chapeaux melons.
A propos, j'ai appris l'histoire du chapeau melon: Un anglais vers 1900 a essayé sans succés de lancer le chapeau melon en Bolivie; du coup il a changé de stratégie et a lancé une rumeur comme quoi c'était la grande mode chez les femmes en Europe...
Ca a marché les Boliviennes ont commencé à les porter et petit à petit c'est devenu quelque chose de traditionnel...
Par contre l'histoire ne dit pas pourquoi ils sont systématiquement trop petits...
J'ai aussi sympathisé avec entre autre un Belge qui bosse ici pour une ONG et une fille de La Paz avec qui je vais découvrir la nightlife de la capitale...
A proximitè de La Paz, je vais faire un tour à Tiwanaku, la capitale de la civilisation pré-Inca du même nom, c'est l'endroit qu'avait choisi Evo Morales pour faire son discours d'intronisation comme président de la Bolivie en costume traditionnel et devant une foule immense d'indiens venu de toutes les Amèriques, du sud au nord...
On trouve à Tiwanaku ruines et statues impressionnantes ainsi que des légendes qui encore une fois parlent d'extra terrestres mais aussi de voyages transocéaniques précolumbiens...
Ensuite je retourne à Copacabana manger à nouveau quelques truite créoles et m'embarquer pour l'Isla del Sol.
Cette ile du lac Titicaca est l'endroit légendaire où les Incas situaient la naissance du soleil (c'est pas rien quand même!!!) mais aussi de leur premier empereur...
C'est aussi une île montagneuse sans routes et avec tout juste l'électricité.
Un endroit magnifique et sauvage sur le lac navigable le plus haut du monde...
Quand on arrive par le sud de l'île, on doit grimper un gigantesque escalier Inca, ce qui à près de 4000m d'altitude n'est pas une mince affaire...Je pense que les Incas devaient avoir de sacrés mollets...
Ensuite, je traverse l'île du sud au nord en un peu plus de 3 heures de marches à travers collines, plages et forêts d'eucalyptus, un plaisir de tous les sens, et j'arrive finalement à "la casa de don Alfonso" qu'on m'avait recommandé. Un refuge écologique, jolie appelation pour une cabane rudimentaire sans eau et avec à peine l'électricité...
Pour moi c'est parfait, l'endroit est magnifique et Don Alfonso est vraiment gentil comme tous les gens que j'ai rencontré sur l'île d'ailleurs...
Petite ballade nocturne éclairé seulement par la pleine lune afin d'apprécier le calme de ce lieux magique et le lendemain je pars voir les ruines Incas et la table de sacrifice, partage un maté avec un Argentin (ca commencait à me manquer...) et repars vers le sud où je retrouve mon amie de La Paz qui accompagne des touristes (c'est son boulot...)
On partage un magnifique coucher de soleil depuis les hauteurs de l'île...
Le lendemain je retourne á Copacabana (encore une truite...) et je prends un minibus pour Puno, première étape Péruvienne...
A suivre...
Here I am in La Paz, a really interresting city always overcrowded, especially when the night is falling.
I'm walking a little everywhere climbing a " mirador", lookout over the all city.
More than in any other town, it's this way that La Paz, gigantic agglomeration located in a high valley surrounded by snow-covered mountains and volcanos of more than 6000m, takes all its impressive dimension…
My challenge in La Paz was to meet Evo Morales, the first indigenous president of South America, I put the sustained pressure at the presidential palace and I really thought it was going to work…
Finally they let me enter in the palace and take a portrait of a presidential guard but not of Evo, too busy…
I'm also attending the ceremonies celebrating the birthday of the district of Tarija where I'm making pal with a 4 years old little girl who have fun scoffing at the soldiers and the journalists, it's making me laugh a lot, we're dancing a little together at the sounds of the military brass bands and I'm taking some photographs…
I will stay one more week in La Paz, the time to fill myself with its special atmosphere… The Mercado Negro where one finds everything, the witches' market where one finds the rest (dried foetuses of LAMA for example…), shoeshiners wearing a black integral balaclava in the purest " Tupac Amaru" style (at least with my superstars I am not harassed by any shoeshiners…) and everywhere the "choletas" and their small bowler hats...
By the way, I learned about the story of the bowler hat: an English guy around 1900 tried without success to launch the bowler hat in Bolivia; therefore he changed his strategy and launched a rumour saying that it was the latest fashion thing among women in Europe… It worked great, the Bolivian women started to wear it and gradually it became something traditional…
however the story does not tell why they are systematically too small…
Amongst other, I also sympathized with a Belgian Guy who works here for an NGO and a girl from La Paz with whom I discovered the nightlife of the capital…
Near La Paz, I'm visiting Tiwanaku, the capital of the pre-INCA civilization of the same name, it's the place that Evo Morales had chosen to make his intronisation speech as the président of Bolivia wearing a traditional costume and in front of an huge crowd of Indians from all Americas, from south to north…
One finds in Tiwanaku impressives ruins and statues as much as legends which once again talk about aliens but also about transoceanic precolumbian journey…
Then I went back to Copacabana to eat some more creole trouts and embarked for the Isla del Sol.
This island on the Titicaca lake is the legendary place where Incas located the birth of the sun (which is not few!!!) but also of their first emperor…
It is also a mountainous island without any roads and not much electricity.
A splendid and wild place on the highest navigable lake of the world…
When one arrives by the south of the island, one must climb gigantic INCA stairs, which at around 4000m is not that easy … I think that Incas were to have huge calves…
Then, I'm crossing the island from south to north in a little more than 3 hours walk through hills, beaches and eucalyptus forests, a pleasure of all the senses, and I'm finally arriving at "la casa de don Alfonso" that has been recommended to me.
An ecological refuge, pretty name for a rudimentary hut without water and with hardly electricity…
For me it is just perfect, the area is splendid and Don Alfonso is really nice like all the people I met on the island…
Small night ballade enlightened only by full moon in order to appreciate the quietness of this magic places and the next day I'm leaving to see the Incas ruins and the table of sacrifice, sharing a maté with an Argentinian (I started I to miss that…) and go back towards the south where I find my friend of La Paz which is accompaning tourists ( it's her job…)
We're sharing a splendid sunset from the heights of this paradise island…
The next day I go back to Copacabana (one more trout…) and I take a minibus to Puno,my first Peruvian step…
To be continued…
I'm also attending the ceremonies celebrating the birthday of the district of Tarija where I'm making pal with a 4 years old little girl who have fun scoffing at the soldiers and the journalists, it's making me laugh a lot, we're dancing a little together at the sounds of the military brass bands and I'm taking some photographs…
I will stay one more week in La Paz, the time to fill myself with its special atmosphere… The Mercado Negro where one finds everything, the witches' market where one finds the rest (dried foetuses of LAMA for example…), shoeshiners wearing a black integral balaclava in the purest " Tupac Amaru" style (at least with my superstars I am not harassed by any shoeshiners…) and everywhere the "choletas" and their small bowler hats...
By the way, I learned about the story of the bowler hat: an English guy around 1900 tried without success to launch the bowler hat in Bolivia; therefore he changed his strategy and launched a rumour saying that it was the latest fashion thing among women in Europe… It worked great, the Bolivian women started to wear it and gradually it became something traditional…
however the story does not tell why they are systematically too small…
Amongst other, I also sympathized with a Belgian Guy who works here for an NGO and a girl from La Paz with whom I discovered the nightlife of the capital…
Near La Paz, I'm visiting Tiwanaku, the capital of the pre-INCA civilization of the same name, it's the place that Evo Morales had chosen to make his intronisation speech as the président of Bolivia wearing a traditional costume and in front of an huge crowd of Indians from all Americas, from south to north…
One finds in Tiwanaku impressives ruins and statues as much as legends which once again talk about aliens but also about transoceanic precolumbian journey…
Then I went back to Copacabana to eat some more creole trouts and embarked for the Isla del Sol.
This island on the Titicaca lake is the legendary place where Incas located the birth of the sun (which is not few!!!) but also of their first emperor…
It is also a mountainous island without any roads and not much electricity.
A splendid and wild place on the highest navigable lake of the world…
When one arrives by the south of the island, one must climb gigantic INCA stairs, which at around 4000m is not that easy … I think that Incas were to have huge calves…
Then, I'm crossing the island from south to north in a little more than 3 hours walk through hills, beaches and eucalyptus forests, a pleasure of all the senses, and I'm finally arriving at "la casa de don Alfonso" that has been recommended to me.
An ecological refuge, pretty name for a rudimentary hut without water and with hardly electricity…
For me it is just perfect, the area is splendid and Don Alfonso is really nice like all the people I met on the island…
Small night ballade enlightened only by full moon in order to appreciate the quietness of this magic places and the next day I'm leaving to see the Incas ruins and the table of sacrifice, sharing a maté with an Argentinian (I started I to miss that…) and go back towards the south where I find my friend of La Paz which is accompaning tourists ( it's her job…)
We're sharing a splendid sunset from the heights of this paradise island…
The next day I go back to Copacabana (one more trout…) and I take a minibus to Puno,my first Peruvian step…
To be continued…
10 comments:
Cool ta revue de la Paz. J'aime bien ton côté j'ai peur de rien, d'aller essayer d'interviewer ce président!
et l'autre hé!
je penserai à toi mercredi quand j'irai voir Sparrow, le nouveau Johnnie TO...
Cielito lindo, thanks for the set of cholas with hats!
merci christelle...ça a bien failli marcher...dans ces pays, je me dis que tout est possible....
nouveau johnny to?? interressant! décidement il est productif djonny!!
you re very welcome my anonymous friend ;D
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